Courtesy Techradar

She grabs my inner clothing (you know what I mean), yanks at it and releases me with a jerk. Her clear gloves move on before I know it, and they are unrelenting. Let me say, though, that the hands may shift, but the expression remains the same – that of complete ennui. At the end of the frisk, if you can call it that, she even yawns, it seems, to emphasize her point. And it’s an unabashed, mouth-wide-open yawn in my face before she pulls open the curtain to the little white box that sets the women apart from the men at DXB.

Your vanity may be bruised, but hey, at least your pride is not; it must be said that the time for random searches is over. It was reassuring to see that everyone flying to JFK in New York, including first and business class passengers, were patted down with equal determination. Even our fellow passengers of the North/West, whatever you want to call it raise their arms and spread their legs. The men are made to strip layers till they’re in shirts/Tshirts as the unceremonious jostling continues uninterrupted in full view of all.

In the increasingly fearful and paranoid world we inhabit, it appears that there is more egalitarianism in at least one respect; we should be scared of everyone and anyone.

Courtesy Typepad


North Karachi: Sahar Ali of Panos with Naveen Naqvi

One of the first things Sahar Ali of Panos impresses upon me is that the HIV virus spares no one. “Anyone can get HIV/AIDS. Every one of us is vulnerable,” she said gesturing to herself and me.

Through her employing non-government organisation, Sahar and her team have been recording oral testimonies of Pakistani women living with HIV and AIDS. The objective is to act as a sort of link between policymakers and infected women.

“People who take decisions often can’t hear the actual stories of women who live with the disease,” she explains. “We want to bring the two closer.” Interestingly, in Pakistan while it is believed that HIV and AIDS are limited to women who are sex workers, Panos argue otherwise.

‘Policy-makers are gradually waking up to the dangers HIV poses to millions of women, particularly married women in Pakistan, whose low status puts them at greater risk.’

Another aim of the NGO is to bring women with HIV/AIDS to the attention of the media, and that’s how I found myself driving to North Karachi.

Rubina Iqbal is a petite woman with a firm handshake and a broad smile that crinkles the corners of her eyes. She is one of around 80,000 people currently living with HIV in Pakistan. Looking at Rubina, a dominant misconception about the pandemic is dispelled right away – she appears to be completely healthy. Her story is compelling, and even if the narrative of how she contracted the disease is not unique, the resolution certainly is. Even more remarkable is the woman’s courage.

Rubina contracted the virus several years ago from her husband. “He was a drug user and he would frequent sex workers. He had unprotected sex with other women and with me,” she tells me. “I didn’t know anything about HIV/AIDS. When we found that he had it, I was checked and discovered that I had it too.” Her voice hardens as do her eyes when she recounts the impact of that revelation on her life. “My in-laws threw me out of the house. They took my children away from me when it was their son who had given me this disease. As far as they were concerned, I didn’t exist.”

For many Pakistani women the story would end there, but not so for Rubina. She went for help to Dr Saleem Azam’s Pakistan Society. Here she found care, employment and the opportunity to talk to people like herself, people who live with HIV/AIDS. She also found her best friend and now, husband, Iqbal, who like her made a new life for himself after coming to Pakistan Society.

“If it weren’t for Barray Papa (the name she and all others being cared for by Dr Azam use for him), I and so many like me would be on the street,” she tells me with a smile. Then I see her eyes fill with tears as she says, “That is where we will all end up again if our grant from the World Bank is not extended. The government is not interested in pursuing the grant, but the future of so many depends on it.”

The World Bank has been the major donor toward the prevention of HIV/AIDS in Pakistan, and their grant came to an end in December 2009. According to Dr Azam and his employees, it is the Ministry of Health that is dragging its feet on the issue. Sources in the Ministry have been reported to say that HIV/AIDS is no longer an issue in Pakistan.

In a narrow lane that resounds with noises – children playing, hawkers selling their wares, goats bleating, and motorbikes sputtering – Rubina stands beaming at her doorstep, waving goodbye. She may know that she does not have long to live, but she has hope and much of it rests on us.


February 03, 2010, Photo - European Press Agency

I don’t know about anyone else, but the news that Pakistanis might have their very own live volcano is very worrying to me.

It turns out that the people of Waam in Ziarat, an area that was badly hit by the Balochistan earthquake of 2008, noticed a huge quantity of dark black material at the mountain summit of Killi Waam after an explosion a couple of days ago. The mountain had developed cracks in the October 29 earthquake, and was spewing lava after explosions and thick smoke had enveloped the area. Tremors measuring up to 3.8 on the Richter scale were also recorded. Experts of the Geological Survey of Pakistan have said that these may be indications of volcanic activity in the region. Sardar Saeed Akhtar, a senior official of the GSP, told Dawn that ‘there was no precedent of any volcanic activity in the country.’ Continue reading ‘Our Very Own Volcano’


Art for Life

30Jan10

When I was on my way to meet Haider, I didn’t know what to expect. I knew only that he was a truck artist who my friend and artist, Tapu Javeri, adored. The drive to Haider’s neighbourhood, Garden East, was harrowing. It took me to the entrance of Gandhi Garden, which I believe we now insist on calling Karachi Zoo. The last time that I had really been there was when I was a child visiting Pakistan for my summer holidays from Saudi Arabia. Was the traffic this chaotic? I can’t say that I remember the streets being quite as congested, the shops piled on top of each other in the way they are now, and the air so thick with smog that it wasn’t really air anymore. Maybe that’s childhood though. It transcends ‘the desert of the real.’ Continue reading ‘Art for Life’


Photo: Dawn Newspaper - Protesting human rights activists and relatives of Shazia are being jostled by the police in Lahore

The failure of the Lahore police to register a case against the alleged and likely murderers of twelve-year-old Shazia, giving them the time to escape is a glaring example of the complicity of authorities in crimes against the underprivileged. The details of Shazia’s story are horrific. She first turned up on the national pages of Dawn on Saturday, where she was described as the teenaged niece of an Amanat Masih (Masih literally meaning Christian – a common name for lower-middle class Catholics in Pakistan), indicating her minority status. Of course, being of the female gender, she was already a minority. But a girl-child domestic worker of the Christian faith in Pakistan – did she even stand a chance? Continue reading ‘When Lawmakers are Lawbreakers’